In the late 1850s and early 1860s, crinolines (structured petticoats) reached their largest dimensions. Made of a weightier ribbed gray and pale blue shot (iridescent) silk, this dress with cuffed pagoda sleeves is notable for its very full skirt, and bands of elaborate fringed and looped silk braid, forming a pelerine (cape) effect on the bodice.

The braid and the buttons were probably products of the newly emerging American silk industry. Both hand and machine stitched, the top stitching and side back seam were created by an early chain stitching machine. This dates the piece to between 1857 and 1860.